Sravana, Life, and the Monsoon

In this essay, Marco Bonilla captures India's sacred month of Sravana, when the monsoon rains transform the land and millions of pilgrims journey to Shiva's holy cities in a vivid display of faith, nature, and life intertwined.
  • Marco Bonilla
    Colombian Photographer, political scientist, and journalist
The festival coincides with the arrival of the monsoon and the long-awaited rains that guarantee sustenance and the renewal of life.
The holy month of Sravana has come to a close in India. Across the country – but with particular intensity in the sacred cities of Haridwar and Varanasi – this pilgrimage unfolds, drawing millions of people from their homes to sites associated with Lord Shiva, places that hold special power in the sacred geography of Hinduism.
It is hard to find another time of year when climate, landscape, agriculture, mythology, and religion are so intimately intertwined. The festival coincides with the arrival of the monsoon and the long-awaited rains that guarantee sustenance and the renewal of life. With the monsoon rains, India's landscape turns green, plants and animals receive the precious vital nectar, and spirits prepare for an encounter with the divine.
The festival does not take a single form but assumes regional variations – yet certain rituals can be found across the length and breadth of the Indian subcontinent. These rituals are primarily directed at Shiva, the god of renewal. The principal among them is the abhisheka, which consists of pouring water from the Ganges River onto the linga – the representation of Shiva – in temples throughout India.
A blind couple crosses the Ganges over the Laxman Jhula bridge (Rishikesh) during Sravana
Shiva is the central figurein the rituals of Sravana
Sadhu in the center of Varanasi
Pilgrims in the vicinity of Dashashwamedh Ghat, Varanasi
To this end, millions of pilgrims, known as kanwariyas, hailing from every corner of the country – alone or in groups of friends, family, or neighbours – make their way to the holy cities along the Ganges. They carry containers suspended from bamboo poles slung across their shoulders and cover vast distances, sometimes for weeks on end, and occasionally barefoot, guided by a sublime and mystical magnetism.
The roads and cities they pass through take on an extraordinary atmosphere – everyday life is transformed by processions, music, praises, flags, encampments, and improvised temples. Upon reaching their destination and beholding the Ganges flowing toward eternity, they fall to their knees, exhausted yet filled with divinity in their souls and their gaze. Then, they collect sacred water from the river and begin the long journey back home.
Visiting India during the sacred month of Sravana is a magnificent opportunity – not only to experience the monsoon and witness the landscape transformed by the rains, but also to observe India in full pilgrimage. It is a beautiful window through which we can glimpse the deep connection between religion and life that lies at the heart of Hinduism.